Day 21- Siem Reap, Ankgor Wat and Goodbyes

4:30 came way too suddenly this morning.  We got down to the lobby in time for the seriously required cups of coffee (and a couple of almond croissants that were fantastic), before boarding the bus for Angkor Wat.  We were each given a shopping bag with a box breakfast (just in case we get hungry- I think my mom must have been part Cambodian).

The bus travelled at warp speed compared to our tuk-tuk (or should I say, putt-putt)yesterday.  Leak shepherded us off the bus and to a café adjacent to the reflecting pool to drop off our bags.  We were then let loose for picture taking.  Although we were there by 5:30, the crowds were definitely thickening.  I scoped out a spot with Jeri, Dave, Molly, and Katherine, but we were still 2^nd row behind a young Chinese couple.  I have a feeling they were not from the city, because they left a crack between them, just big enough fro one leg of my tripod.  After that, it was all over for them, within seconds, I had a perfect spot in the front row at the water’s edge.  The rest of the crew also benefitted, so we all got pretty good photos of the sun rising over Angkor Wat.

After about 500 pix, the sun was up high enough to make our photos much less dramatic,

Reflecting pool just after the best light

"Crowds" 1 hour later.  Timing is everything!

which told us it was time for Boxed Breakfast.

 I’m glad I had those two croissants.  Rick had the great idea of giving back to the myriad of kids plying trinkets.  Our breakfast that we were less than enamored with was a real treat for these kids.  The first kids called their friends, and their friends in turned called more until all 15 breakfasts were gone.  At one point someone had the idea of giving up our shopping bags that the breakfasts came in, and the ensuing melee was reminiscent of Halloween, or Yankee Dental when our kids were cute and they cleaned up at the trade exhibits (no longer cute, but very handsome if I do say so).

We then began exploring Angkor Wat in earnest.  Angkor Wat is Khmer for “City of Temples”, and was built in the 12^th Century by  the Khmer  king, Suryavaram II, as the state temple for the Khmer Empire.  The temple was originally Hindu, dedicated to the god Vishnu, the maintainer, preserver or protector (rather than to Shiva, the destroyer or transformer to whom most of the previous Kings built their temples).  In 1177, approximately 27 years after the death of Suryavarman II, Angkor was sacked by the Chams,  the traditional enemies of the Khmer.  In the late 13th century, Angkor Wat gradually moved from Hindu to Therevada Buddhist use,reflecting the changes in the religion of the country. (many Hindu and animistic traditions have been retained and incorporated into the Buddhism practiced in this part of the world.

Naga, 7-headed (1 missing) serpent whose body makes a cushion  for Buddha and heads  make a cover for his head.

The temple is a representation of Mount Meru the home of the Hindu gods: with the main towers representing the mountain itself with several (4) peaks and the surrounding walls and moats the mountains and rivers around Mount Meru.^3] The higher levels of the tower had limited access based on your rank in society.  We must be pretty important, because we made it to the 3^rd level.

2nd level

3rd level!

Our concept of Buddhist monks was shattered  when we came across monks on cellphones and monks taking Ipad photos.  Buddhism has made it to the 21^st Century!
                                                        

 

For some of the group, the climb up the long, dizzying  flight of stairs was un-negotiable.  Molly was amazing, sucking it up and conquering her fear of heights (not real fear of heights, more like fear of falling).  Coming down was a bit rough, but

She made it, with great relief!

On the eastern gallery there were friezes  depicting , 92 asuras(power hungry deities) and 88 devas (benevolent deities) using the serpent to churn the sea under Vishnu's direction.  This looked like a giant tug-o-war.

On the way out of Angkor Wat,there were a few points of interest

Sign in the ladies room, No standing on the toilet, showering, or washing your shoes???

Pathetic monkey in the shadow of the Angkor Wat  towers

The only frieze with teeth showing.  Looks like she is in  orthodontic treatment with InVisaline

Jess wondering if she lost any of us on the last day

Naga with all 7 heads

Angor Thom, which incorporates areas around Angkor Wat, was the capital city of the Khmer Empire beginning in the late 12^th Century.  Entrance to the city was via 4 massive (well preserved) gates, north, south, east, and west.  After leaving Ankgor Wat, we passed through the south gate.  The traffic was incredible.  The gate is only one lane wide and with the pedestrian, motorbike, bus, and car traffic at its limit, nothing was moving.  There was a bathroom break on this side of the gate, so Jess had us walk to the far side after any necessaries.  The walk took us across a bridge spanning  the moat of the city. covered with statues of deities. On the left are devas and on the right asuras each row holding a naga again in  tug-o-war fashion.

Out in the river, we noted some fishermen, probably catching our dinner.

As we waited for the bus on the far side of the gate, we spotted a large number of monkeys in the trees, on the gate, and on the ground.  Of course, David found a pair of monkeys ”wrestling” (wink, wink).  Don’t worry, I will not include monkey porn in the blog.

Our last temple before our farewell lunch was pretty interesting.  The bus dropped us in the middle of nowhere.  The 15 dutiful little ducklings followed Leak blindly into the forest for a 15 or so minute hike along a river. 

All of a sudden, there was a clearing and there stood a large structure, that had once been a stone gate with three entrances.  The center was intact, but the adjacent openings were shaky (literally), at best.

We proceeded through the least dangerous passage, 

walked over and through ruins covered with vegetation, 

and eventually came to a temple that was in the throes of renovation. 

Jess and Leak had decided to take us into the ruin via the back door, not the conventional way most tourists see it.  It was pretty cool seeing it that way.  Kind of felt like Indiana Jones, sans hat and bullwhip.  
The temple, Preah Khan, was built in the end of the 12^th century. Like the nearby Ta Prom, Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees and other vegetation growing among the ruins.

Leaving through the entry gate used by most tourists.  Can't miss Anne's blue parasol.

Back to the hotel for a final lunch with the group and farewells to Jess and our new found friends, Kim, Robin, Katherine, Roger, and  Suzanne.  The morning had been beautiful, but during lunch, we had a monsoon.  Rain was coming down in sheets horizontally, and we all gave thanks that the timing for the bad weather could not have been any better.

After packing, we hit the bar  for a farewell drink with Rich and Suzanne (our Suzanne), Molly and Dave, Anne and Phil, and Katherine.  Rick and Harriet had an early flight (the first of several for them) and missed drinks.

Anne and Phil and Rich and Suzanne, as well as Roger and the new Suzanne all had flights about the same time as us, so we all left together for the airport.  Bangkok Air has a lounge for all passengers with snacks  and drinks.  I smuggled some brownies out for Suzanne that were much appreciated.  Hopefully, that will hold her until Boston!

Our flight to Bangkok was uneventful.  The airport in Bangkok is quite new and enormous.  Without my normal exaggeration, it took about 30 minutes to get from the gate to immigration.  We then stood on line for another half hour waiting for a taxi to take us into Bangkok.  The hotel was about 30 km from the airport, and it was another 45 min before we reached the Shangri-La Riverside.  Anne and Phil were exhausted and had room service.  Jeri and I snuck into the restaurant just before closing for some soup and satay.

Our room was beautiful, overlooking the Chao Phraya River, with lighted boats passing below us .

Off to explore Bangkok tomorrow, ON OUR OWN.  Cold turkey, no guide.