Day 5- Kyoto
The weather today
was spectacular (though a lot of it couldn’t be enjoyed due to the dreaded bus)
and after a big breakfast, we were back out hunting temples and shrines. The busses seemed even more crowded today
than yesterday and at times required all riders to suck in there guts to allow
another passenger or two to board.
We
made it to our first stop, Kinkaku-ji (aka the Golden Pavilion) along with
several thousand other tourists and schoolchildren on field trips. The Golden Pavilion was built in 1397 by the
3rd shogun of the Ashikaga shogunate, Yoshimitsu, who decided to
become a monk and leave his duties (but not his power) to his son. He was an ardent Zen Buddhist and asked that
his villa become a temple after his death.
The actual villa burned to the ground
by arson in 1950 and was restored precisely to its original. The structure is entirely coated in gold
leaf and is topped by a copper phoenix.
There is an
interesting tree in one of the gardens that has been “trained” to grow to look
like a boat. It was originally a bonsai
tree that was placed outdoors.
Another long bus
ride (and even MORE passengers) got us to another of Kyoto’s major attractions,
Nijo Castle, surprisingly not a temple.
Nijo Castle was built by Ieyasu,
1st shogun of the Togukawa Shogunate from 1543-1616. The Emperor and the Shogun were always vying
for power and with the Imperial capital in Kyoto the castle was built to show off the power of the shogun
based in Edo. He rarely came to the
castle because he preferred not to cross paths with the Emperor. Ironically, the main reception hall was the
site of the surrender of the last Tokugawa shogun to Emperor Meiji in 1867.
The central tower
of the castle was destroyed in a fire but the stone foundation is still present
and we climbed to the top for a birtd’s eye view of the castle grounds.
As it got closer
to rush hour, the busses got more crowded (didn’t believe that was possible)
but back on the horse we went across Kyoto to
Sanjusangen-do Temple. It is famous for its 1001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of
mercy. The temple was founded in 1164 and rebuilt a century later after the
original structure had been destroyed in a fire.
The temple hall is 120 meters long, Japan's longest wooden
structure. The name Sanjusangendo (literally "33 intervals") derives
from the number of intervals between the building's support columns, a
traditional method of measuring the size of a building. In the center of the
main hall sits a large, wooden statue of a 1000-armed Kannon (Senju Kannon)
that is flanked on each side by 500 statues of human sized 1000-armed Kannon
standing in ten rows. Each of the Senju Kannon has 11 heads, better to help
fight suffering. In front of the
Kannons, there are 28 deities to help protect the Kannons.
Unfortunately, photos are not allowed in the building but I can tell you, it made for an awesome sight. This is a stock photo.
On to another temple, Kiyomizu (“pure water”) Temple which
sits high on a hill with killer views of Kyoto.
The main hall of the temple is constructed completely without
any nails and is an excellent example of Japanese joinery.
Pilgrims have come here for nearly 1,000 years to drink the
water from the sacred spring.
The pagoda adjacent to the temple, unfortunately, was closed
which gave some of the best viewing.
On our way out, I spotted these kids trying to get a picture
in action. The mom was using an Iphone
(which is great for some photos, not for action shots-sorry, Sawyer) so I
helped them out. Yasuko got their email
address, and I sent them the photo. The
kids were ecstatic, a lot of handshaking and bowing.
Women in traditional dress coming to the temple for the special "lovers" shrine.
Below the temple is a shopping district with narrow lanes
lined by old Kyoto houses (now shops).
Found geishas out on the street here.
We were also able to get nice views of the Yasaka Pagoda
from this vantage point.
Yasuko promised us a great ice cream shop,here, but after
passing a ½ dozen along the way, we came to find out that her shop was closed.
We continued toward our hotel through Maruyama Park, and
finally found an ice cream vendor that sold other than green tea ice cream (the
chocolate of the Japanese).
We were close enough to the hotel that we needn’t board
another moving coffin, but by the time we reached the Westin, we were both
exhausted, a lot of walking and a lot of jet-lag. We wound up falling asleep around 7pm and
skipped dinner entirely.
Back to Tokyo on the bullet train tomorrow.







































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